Leatherback Turtle
A leatherback turtle diving into the deep.
Where I come from in Malaysia, it has been home for thousands of turtles nesting. I used to hear from the elderly that they used to see leatherback turtle laying eggs. However, the turtles have been disappearing as the locals continued to chomp on their eggs. Eventually, the younger generations, like myself, can only learn about leatherback turtle from our 20 Ringgit bank notes. In the recent years, with the dedicated assistance of local authorities and conservation organizations, it has now become illegal to trade turtle eggs in an effort to protect these remarkable creatures. This crucial measure aims to ensure the survival of endangered turtle populations. Hopefully, one day, Terengganu will be ready to once again welcome the largest species of turtle - the leatherback, bringing hope and joy to local communities and wildlife enthusiasts alike.
The leatherback sea turtle (Dermochelys coriacea) is widely recognized as the largest of all living turtles and also holds the title for the heaviest non-crocodilian reptile in existence, reaching impressive lengths of up to 2.7 metres and weights that can soar to 500 kilograms. Leatherbacks can dive to incredible depths of 4,200 feet—deeper than any other turtle species— they possess the remarkable ability to stay submerged for up to 85 minutes. One of the most distinct features from other sea turtles is its unique lack of a bony shell; rather, its carapace is instead covered by a layer of oily flesh and flexible, leather-like skin, which is precisely for this reason that it has been aptly named.
The carapace of the leatherback is somewhat flexible and rubbery.
Ever since I started diving, seeing a leatherback has become my dream. Kei Island is apparently only location in Indonesia we can hope to photograph leatherbacks underwater. Unfortunately, It is also the home to many traditional turtle hunters.
In the Kei Islands, the act of hunting leatherbacks is deeply rooted in the local cultural and spiritual rituals, with the meat harvested traditionally being shared as a vital community resource among residents, fostering a sense of unity and shared identity. Thus, the longstanding tradition of leatherback hunting was governed by a set of local laws known as adat. These regulations carefully emphasized the importance of adopting sustainable hunting practices, primarily for sustenance purposes, when other food source was limited back in the days, and clearly prohibiting any harvest that was intended for trade or sale. This thoughtful approach ensured that the hunting activities would not negatively impact the population of these magnificent turtles, allowing them to thrive in their natural habitat.
However, in the long run, we witnessed that the leatherback turtles in the Indo-Pacific Ocean are, without a doubt, becoming one of the most at-risk sea turtle populations currently facing significant threats on the planet. Their numbers have been dramatically reduced by more than 80 percent since the 1980s, and the alarming decline appears to be continuing at an unsettling pace. The increased hunting pressure, along with habitat destruction and other environmental factors, has placed this already vulnerable population under immense and relentless strain. The Pacific leatherback is listed as “Critically Endangered” on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species, with recent estimates suggesting as few as 2,300 adult females may remain. This represents a significant decline in their population, which has dwindled by over 80% since the 1980s. By the year 2040, scientists have predicted that only a mere 100 nesting pairs will remain if current trends continue. It is indeed tragic to think that we could potentially witness the complete extinction of the Pacific leatherback population—a remarkable species that has survived for over 150 million years—within our own lifetime.
Village leaders are understandably worried that harvesting leatherbacks without adherence to established traditions is proving to be unsustainable and could potentially drive down the population numbers of these turtles. The community elders have recognized that the loss of leatherback turtles would not only impact the ecological balance but would also contribute significantly to the erosion of important cultural traditions cherished by the Kei peoples. They have voiced their concerns emphatically and have fostered a willingness among the local population to engage in and adopt various leatherback turtle conservation measures aimed at preserving both the species and the cultural legacy associated with them.
Some local villages are beginning to recognize the serious threats, and organizations like WWF and NOAA are actively working to promote environmental education while also striving to reduce hunting and poaching practices. Ultimately, though, the long-term survival of this vulnerable species depends significantly on local community involvement and a strong, shared commitment to conservation efforts. We can only hope that the tide can be turned before it’s too late, as the future of these turtles hang in the balance, and would not end up like ours in Malaysia.
Open ocean encounters can be tough and unpredictable, making each trip unique and often surprising. Leatherbacks only come to the surface to breathe or rest, and they can remarkably stay underwater for impressive durations of up to 85 minutes at a time. Although leatherback is a big turtle, finding them from surface was not easy. A calm, clear day certainly, especially when there was no horizon, the sky and ocean appeared to be the same because the horizon is no longer visible, made it a lot easier to spot any turtles on the surface. However, they would dive below just as soon as they heard the boat approach, often while we were still at a considerable distance. They are skittish. On the other hand, when seas were rougher, the turtles became only visible when we were very close. When the days stretched long and hot under the relentless sun, spending endless hours sitting in a small wooden boat, no shade, staring at the ocean that resembled a turtle shape, any shadow would make you excited.
I spent a total of six intense days out in the vast ocean searching for elusive leatherback turtles, only managing to spot them on two occasions. By the end of the trip, my sunburnt lip resembled a large, swollen sausage, a painful reminder of the time spent under the harsh sun but totally worth it! Throughout this journey, I made friends with the local villagers, who graciously shared their lives, experiences, and fascinating stories with me. They also provided valuable insights about their observations of the leatherback turtles. During the first four days, the ocean was particularly rough, which significantly hindered our ability to spot any turtles. However, on the calmest day, the view from the shore was astonishing; there was no visible horizon, and the ocean appeared like a perfectly still mirror. From a considerable distance, we had a much better chance of seeing anything floating on the surface. While we encountered numerous playful dolphins, the elusive leatherbacks remained out of sight. After five consecutive days of no success, my local guide began to question me about my marital status and whether my wife or girlfriend was pregnant. I learned that the local villagers hold superstitious beliefs, thinking that if a woman is pregnant or on her period, we would not be able to see any leatherbacks. On the fifth day, my local friend fervently prayed to a higher power in hopes that we would finally be fortunate enough to spot a leatherback. Exhausted from the long hours spent on the boat, I fell asleep, only to be jolted awake by my guide's excited shout. I literally sprang into action, quickly putting on my fins and mask. My guide urgently instructed me to jump into the water, but he offered little direction - it was 'there.' Eventually, I learned that the locals believe it is bad luck to point directly at a leatherback, as it might cause them to dive beneath the water. But finally, after all the waiting and anticipation, I saw my dream!